Products / Services
Light Turret
Electronic Control Unit
Joystick
Turret Cable
Joystick Cable
Service & Repair
Spare parts are available. (Spare parts list coming soon)!
We service and repair the light turret, Joystick and ECU as required.
We service and repair the light turret, Joystick and ECU as required.
Basic Fitment Overview
Installation of the unit is reasonably simple. The hardest part if probably finding a suitable location for the ECU. It needs to be in a place where it won’t get flicked by stones and is a bit protected. Although the ECU enclosure is IP65, like all electronic enclosures it best not to pressure wash it or hose it down. If needed a simple hand wipe with a damp sponge should be all that is needed to clean it.
To limit the cables going into the cab the ECU is mounted outside the cabin so the only cable to go into the cabin is the Joystick cable. This is 12mm in diameter and may be able to pass through an existing cable entry or alternatively a 20mm cable gland is supplied that you can use. Usually, you can find a safe suitable place to drill the 20mm hole through the back of the cabin that does not interfere with anything else.
If you wish you can run the cable under the floor carpet to the centre console. Then pop out under the passenger seat. The joystick then plugs in to it there giving you the ability to disconnect it and remove it from the vehicle if you are not using it.
The turret is to be mounted on to either two roof rack cross bars, or the Pioneer Tray. The holes on the unit are designed to fit the spacings of the Pioneer Tray. This makes it simple to remove when not in use. Just undo the four mounting bolts (Pioneer tiedown eyelets) and disconnect the electrical plugs and you are back ready for camping etc…
The joystick has a M5 thread in the bottom so it can be attached to various mounts. One that works in the 200 Series Landcruiser is the Ram Mount Cup Mount. (This was shown in one of my videos). For my ford ranger nothing else is required, it just jams snugly in the cup holder. This is something you will need to play with to suit your requirements, depending on your vehicle and where it is most comfortable for you to operate it.
The main cable for the turret to the roof is pre-made and all that is required is to run it from the ECU to the Roof. The excess cable should be neatly coiled up and cable tied in a location out of the way, usually under the Ute tray.
The Joystick Cable is also pre-made, and again excess cable can be coiled up out of the way. With this cable I leave the Deutsch plug off the end that goes into the cabin so that it can be passed through the Cable entry / gland. I still crimp the connections to the end so all that needs to be done is push the pins into the plug and insert the wedge block. This is simply, Pin 1 is Wire 1, Pin 2 is Wire 2, …. Up to Pin 8 is Wire 8.
There are some options regarding the Main Power connections.
If you are only running a 12V spotlight and don’t need all the available Auxiliary power, then you can order the unit with just the Main Power supply cable. (This main supply has a maximum current draw of 30A). The secondary “Light Power” will be blanked off and an internal link will power the 12V spotlight. (The ability to change down the track will still be available by removing the jumper connections inside and fitting the “Spotlight” power supply cable.
If you want to you can power the spotlight from the “Spotlight Power” which then keeps it separate from the “Main Power” and allows you a full 30A for other Auxiliary working light functions, and 15A for the Spotlight.
If you are running a 24V light, then you MUST use the “Spotlight Power” connection lead and ensure the Jumpers inside are not connected. When using the 24V light the power in to the “Spotlight Power” is the 24V supplied from your DC/DC step up transformer. The ECU then switches the 24V side of things, not the “Transformer” on and off.
It is also recommended that all the power connections from the Battery or DC/DC step up transformer are fitted with a suitable fuse as close to the power source as possible. This is to protect against electrical shorts in the cable from the Power Supply Source to the ECU.
Maximum fuse ratings are;ECU Main Power 30A (12V ONLY)Spotlight Power 15A (12V or 24V)
Nominal Cable Lengths are;Turret Cable 5m (Dual / Space Cab)Turret Cable 4m (Single Cab)Joystick Loom 4m (Dual / Space /Single Cab)Main Power 5mSpotlight Power 5m (When fitted)Fly Lead on Joystick 0.6m
ECU Box Dimensions are nominally 190 Wide X 150 High X 80 Deep.With the 150 high, you will need an additional 150mm below to allow for the electrical connections.The 80 deep will need a little more room in front to allow the removal of the cover to allow access to the internal fuses and relays. These are off the shelf standard automotive fuses and relays so you can fix yourself and get going again.The right-hand side also needs some clearance as that is the side the power connections are.
To limit the cables going into the cab the ECU is mounted outside the cabin so the only cable to go into the cabin is the Joystick cable. This is 12mm in diameter and may be able to pass through an existing cable entry or alternatively a 20mm cable gland is supplied that you can use. Usually, you can find a safe suitable place to drill the 20mm hole through the back of the cabin that does not interfere with anything else.
If you wish you can run the cable under the floor carpet to the centre console. Then pop out under the passenger seat. The joystick then plugs in to it there giving you the ability to disconnect it and remove it from the vehicle if you are not using it.
The turret is to be mounted on to either two roof rack cross bars, or the Pioneer Tray. The holes on the unit are designed to fit the spacings of the Pioneer Tray. This makes it simple to remove when not in use. Just undo the four mounting bolts (Pioneer tiedown eyelets) and disconnect the electrical plugs and you are back ready for camping etc…
The joystick has a M5 thread in the bottom so it can be attached to various mounts. One that works in the 200 Series Landcruiser is the Ram Mount Cup Mount. (This was shown in one of my videos). For my ford ranger nothing else is required, it just jams snugly in the cup holder. This is something you will need to play with to suit your requirements, depending on your vehicle and where it is most comfortable for you to operate it.
The main cable for the turret to the roof is pre-made and all that is required is to run it from the ECU to the Roof. The excess cable should be neatly coiled up and cable tied in a location out of the way, usually under the Ute tray.
The Joystick Cable is also pre-made, and again excess cable can be coiled up out of the way. With this cable I leave the Deutsch plug off the end that goes into the cabin so that it can be passed through the Cable entry / gland. I still crimp the connections to the end so all that needs to be done is push the pins into the plug and insert the wedge block. This is simply, Pin 1 is Wire 1, Pin 2 is Wire 2, …. Up to Pin 8 is Wire 8.
There are some options regarding the Main Power connections.
If you are only running a 12V spotlight and don’t need all the available Auxiliary power, then you can order the unit with just the Main Power supply cable. (This main supply has a maximum current draw of 30A). The secondary “Light Power” will be blanked off and an internal link will power the 12V spotlight. (The ability to change down the track will still be available by removing the jumper connections inside and fitting the “Spotlight” power supply cable.
If you want to you can power the spotlight from the “Spotlight Power” which then keeps it separate from the “Main Power” and allows you a full 30A for other Auxiliary working light functions, and 15A for the Spotlight.
If you are running a 24V light, then you MUST use the “Spotlight Power” connection lead and ensure the Jumpers inside are not connected. When using the 24V light the power in to the “Spotlight Power” is the 24V supplied from your DC/DC step up transformer. The ECU then switches the 24V side of things, not the “Transformer” on and off.
It is also recommended that all the power connections from the Battery or DC/DC step up transformer are fitted with a suitable fuse as close to the power source as possible. This is to protect against electrical shorts in the cable from the Power Supply Source to the ECU.
Maximum fuse ratings are;ECU Main Power 30A (12V ONLY)Spotlight Power 15A (12V or 24V)
Nominal Cable Lengths are;Turret Cable 5m (Dual / Space Cab)Turret Cable 4m (Single Cab)Joystick Loom 4m (Dual / Space /Single Cab)Main Power 5mSpotlight Power 5m (When fitted)Fly Lead on Joystick 0.6m
ECU Box Dimensions are nominally 190 Wide X 150 High X 80 Deep.With the 150 high, you will need an additional 150mm below to allow for the electrical connections.The 80 deep will need a little more room in front to allow the removal of the cover to allow access to the internal fuses and relays. These are off the shelf standard automotive fuses and relays so you can fix yourself and get going again.The right-hand side also needs some clearance as that is the side the power connections are.
Got A Question?
Designed by professional Roo shooters who don’t want to drill holes in their vehicle roof and who are tired of sore elbows and hands from hanging to the old-style spotlight.